Girdle and stiffening unit



March 28, 1950 H. M. HERBENER GIRDLE AND STIFFEN'ING UNIT 4 Sheets-Sheet2 Filed Nov. 21, 1946 Hear Herb ener March 1950 'H. M. HERBENER GIRDLEAND STIFFENING UNIT 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed Nov. 21, 1946 r y M H 87March 1950 H. M. HERBENER GIRDLE AND STIFFENING UN 4 Sheets-Sheet FiledNov. 21, 1946 r Ymma a Patented Mar. 28, 1950 2,501,900 GIRDLEIANDSTIFFENINGQUNI'IY HenryM: Herbenen; Thomasville; on

Application Novemben 21, 19%,,Se1'i al NQ1l-711,255.1

13 Glaiins:

vide a device of theaboye mentionedcharact'er including a body portionhaving the maximum strength adjace-ntto the end" or ends of'the shortrib or ribs.

A further ob'jectofthe invention'is to provide a deviceofthe abovementioned" character which is free from uniold'ed'cutedges;v

A further object ofthe invention is to provide a device of theabove-mentioned character, the elements of which will remain properlyassembled prior to the device being securedtothe garment. v

A further object, of the, invention is: to provide a device of the abovementionedcharacter: which:

will remain substantially fiat in the proper'posie tion when secured to?the;- garment" and" isxsufficiently resilient to permit of the'proper'turn ing action of the shortri-b or ribs:-

A further object of the'invention is to'provide a stiffening unit of theabove mentioned cha-r acter, which is nea-tin appearance; strong,durable,- thinand easy-to applyto-thegarment.

A further object of the invention is to-providemeans forpreventing-thevertically elasticback portion of a girdlefrom wrinkling orfolding inuse; without imparing'its elasticity.

A further object of the inventionistoprovide means for fixedlyattaching'a stifiening ribnear one end in an elastic elongated'pocket';so-that thepocket can slide uponthe rib throughout the major portionof-the length of'the-ribn Other objects and advantages :ofthe inventionwill be apparent during the course-=of the=-fol-'-- lowing description.

In the accompanying: drawings formingapart" of this application and in"which.like numeralsare employed to-designate like partsthroug-hout thesame,-

Figure 1 is a perspectivev-iew of agirdleemrr bodying my invention,

Figure 2'--is a-planviewofthe blank-from Whichthe body portion ofthestiffening unit is formed;

Figure 3 is a plan view of 'a blank foriforming, the resilient side ofthe.uni.t,'1

Figure 4 is an exploded": perspectiveview of the body portion andresilient side; prior to assembling,

Figure 5j"i's aperspective view ofthe bodyportion andhresilient' side,assembled; for forming thestiffening rib. holding casing f Figure 6' isa central longitudinal, section. through the casing, with the transverse.tape at.- tached' at one end't'osthe casing,.taken online 6'6?ofIFi'gure 5; I

Figure 7 is a perspective view of the casing, with thetapeextendingacross the resilient side, with one endiunattached;

Figure: sfisna perspectiveview. of the stiffeningelement,

Figure 9i's a perspective, view ofithe completed: casing having thestifiening element therein, 7

Eigure IO'is a central'longitudinalisectiontaken V on'line Ni -l0'ofFi'gure' Figure. 11 is a. perspective. view' of" the complatedstiifening unit" applied; to the inner. face ofthe'frontpanel'of,theigirdle;

Figure 12 is a horizontarsection taken onli'ne; l 2: l 2 ofEigure' 1'1';

Figure 13' is a similar viewtakenon line; Ii -i3? ofgFigure 11,

Figure 145115" a similar "view takenonzline I 4 ['4 of gFigure'll," j

Figure" '15 is an; exploded" perspective: View of" the elementsforming amodified form of resilient vside fore the rib holding casing,

Figure" 16" is a perspective view of" the assembledfel'ements" formingthe moidified resi-l'ienfi side,

Figure 17 is a central longitudinal section through a' rib" holdingcasing embodying the modifiedresilientside,

Figure, 18 is; a" perspective viewofia modified" form of: girdle havingthe stifieningunitst ap plied-toitsouterface;

Figure" leis aninner -side"elevation of the rear panel 'of agirdle;having my stifiening'units ap pliedth'ereto;

Figure" 20 is an enlarged perspective viewof" the rearpanel and-'-associated elements; parts broken away;

Figure" 2-1 is a" longitudinal sectiontaken on line 2' '-2-'i ofFig-ure'20";

Figure 22 isa side elevation of the:- stiifenin'g rib shown" inFig-uresd 9 t'o I Figure 23' is-=a-.- side elevation of the inner -faceof -er backpanel of" a girdle and associated ele ments, partsbrokemaway;

Figure 24 is a fabric blank for forming means to secure the rib to theelastic portion of a garment,

Figure 25 is a perspective view blank partly folded,

Figure 26 is an edge elevation of the same,

Figure 27 is a perspective view of the completely folded and assembledblank and stiffening rib, showing the same applied to the elasticportion of a garment,

Figure 28 is a longitudinal section taken on line 2328 of Figure 27,

Figure 29 is a side elevation of a flexible strip, having one endsecured to the elastic portion of the garment, before folding the stripto the closed position,

Figure 30 is a side elevation of the Strip and elastic portion, showingthe strip in the closed position and stitched to the elastic portion,

Figure 31 is a longitudinal section taken on line 3 |3| of Figure 30,

Figure 32 is a longitudinal section taken on line 32-32 of Figure 30.

In the drawings, where for the purpose of illustration are shownpreferred embodiments of my invention, attention being called first toFigures 1 to 14 inclusive, the numeral designates an elastic girdlecomprising sides I l which are preferably two way stretch, a front panelI2 which is preferably non-elastic and a back panel |3 which is one wayvertically elastic. This girdle is of the general construction shown inmy Patent 2,136,742.

The numeral |4 designates stiffening units, secured to the front panel|2, substantially vertically arranged, and extending from the top of thefront panel downwardly for about one third of the length of the frontpanel, although this may be varied. Since the front panel |2 isnon-elastic, the stiifening units M are positioned upon the inner faceof this panel.

Each stiffening unit includes a body portion |4' formed from anelongated rectangular fabric blank |5, which is preferablynon-extensible. This blank is preferably formed of a light flexiblestrong fabric, such as nylon. The blank I is folded upon longitudinallines IE, to provide a side i! and side sections I8 and folded edges |9.The inner edges of the side sections |8 abutt but do not overlap. Thelongitudinally folded blank is then folded upon transverse lines 20 toprovide pocket walls 2|.

The numeral 2| designates a. longitudinally elastic strip or side,foldable upon transverse lines 22, affording reinforcing inturned flaps23.

The folded ends of the elastic side 2| are now inserted into the pocketwalls 2|, between the sides l1 and side sections |8.thereof, and aresecured to these pocket walls 2| by transverse lines of stitching 24,which pass through these assembled parts only. The assembled bodyportion l4 and elastic side 2| now lie substantially flat, in superposedrelation and constitute a stiffening element or rib receiving casing.The side 2| is narrower than the body portion l4 and the body portionhas its longitudinal edges extending laterally beyond the elastic side2| The numeral 25 designates a horizontal transverse retaining tape orband, which is applied to the outer face of the elastic side 2|, but isnot stitched or otherwise secured thereto so that the elastic side maymove with relation thereto. One folded end of this tape is sewed ortacked to the body portion I4 by a line of stitching 26.

The stiffening element is preferably of the form showing the 4 shown inmy co-pending application for Girdle or the like, filed November 10,1945, Serial No. 627,857. This stiffening element includes a longresilient rib 21, and short stiif ribs 28, hinged to the opposite endsof the long rib to provide knee joints, as shown. The stiffening elementis now passed between the assembled body portion I4 and the elastic side2|, and is enclosed within the casing. The opposite end of the tape 25is folded inwardly and sewed or stitched to the body portion l4 by aline of stitching 36. This tape retains the stiffening element withinthe casing.

I contemplate forming the inner side of the casing of a short section oflongitudinally elastic fabric 32, Figures 15, 16, and 17. I provideflexible attaching elements 33 for the elastic section 32. Eachattaching element is formed of a section of non-elastic fabric, such asnylon, folded upon itself upon longitudinal lines to provide a side 34and side sections 35. The elastic section 32 is slightly narrower thanthe attaching element 33 and its end is inserted into the end of thesame and secured thereto by a transverse line of stitching 36. The outerends of the attaching elements 33 are inserted between the layers of thepocket side 2| and are secured thereto by lines of stitching 31.

The assembled elements thus described constitute a completed stiffeningunit, which may be made and sold as such, and may be applied to anygarment, when desired. I contemplate omitting the intermediate portionof the body portion I4, between the lines a, Figure 4, and I would thenomit the tape 25.

As shown in Figure 1, two of these stiffening units Hi are arranged uponthe inner face of the front panel |2, as stated, since the front panelis non-elastic. The body portion I4 is next to the panel. The stiffeningunits are secured to the front panel l2 by longitudinal lines ofstitching 38 passing through the body portion I6 pocket sides 2| and thefront panel i2, Figure 11, but not through the elastic side of thecasing, nor through the attaching elements 33 or the elastic section 32,Figures 15, 16, and 17. The pocket walls or sides 2| form with the bodyportion l4, pockets 32, receiving the outer ends of the short ribs 28,the hinge joints occurring near the lines of stitching 24. The flaps 23extend longitudinally inwardly beyond these lines of stitching andprovide a reinforced two layer formation for engagement with the innerends of the short ribs. The pockets 32 which receive the outer ends ofthe short ribs have opposite sides which are of two layer formation. Thestiffening units |4 may also be secured to the inner face of anon-elastic lining, arranged upon the inner face of the panel |2, andthis lining would thus serve to attach the units M to the panel |2 orgarment.

When applied to the front panel, as shown in Figures 1 and 11, the uppershort ribs turn upon their hinges to follow the curvature of the body,as the wearer stoops forwardly, thus preventing the jabbing action bythe upper ends of the long ribs. The lower short ribs follow thecurvature of the body and prevent the lower ends of the long rib jabbingthe wearer.

As shown in Figure 18, a longitudinally elastic front panel I2 issubstituted for the front panel |2, other parts of the girdle remainingthe same as described in connection with Figure 1. Since the front panel-|2 islongitudinally elastic, the stiifening units 4 may be applied tothe outer face of the front panel |2', with the elastic side 22 'lsne'xti toilthenpanel .|:2 The bo'dyrzportiom 14' Lof the zunit |4Eisrstitched toltheafront paneli t2 byllineslofistitching .39;terminating:-atthehinges *oflthea short ribs, and intermediatellinesofistitch- Ping 340. The elastic-sided 'a may :be' omitted, if

desired.

In Eigur-e 1, Lhave showmstiffening:units M .i'cortesponding-l to theunits. I 4, larrangedlupon the inner face of the sides vand Jstitchedthereto "as irrdicated in 2 connection with I the sstiifening imits- M.since -the sides I l are elastic,2-thei=stifielding-units: M maybearranged upom the outer face of the sides I |,'Figure l8, withthemodification :of the stitching;as-described in connection with i FigureI 18. -shorter than the 'stiffening 'units I4, but are "otherwiseidentical with the same. The: stifienii-ng units I Hi extend verticallyfrom the to' oof thelgirdleaand are spaced, andany 'suitabie numberofth'em' maybe used.

ln Figures'l to21, Ihaveshownthe rear panel or portion-4| of a girdle,which panel: is vertically elastic. The panel or portion'extends to'-thetop of the girdle. Preferably arranged upon theinner face of thepanel or portion-"4| "aihorizontal line of stitching 41, passing through.theslotliand connecting the-"strip-42,*fiap 43 andpanel 4|.

It is thusseen that the top end of the rib-44 is fixedly secured to thegarment panel or pertion-4|, at the top end of the rib and-garment,while thecasing or pocket formed by the" strip or 'tape 42 and panel4|is freely "longitudinally "slidable upon the rib44, throughoutsubstantially the"='enti-re length of the rib. *By'providing' thisc'oristru'ction at the back of the garment, when the user stoopsforwardly or sits down, the panel or portion 4| is free tostretchlongitudinally with relation-to the rib44. isreli'e'ved, the panel "orportion 4| returns'to thenormal 'condition, but there is no tendency forthe panel or portion 4| to fold or'wrinkle, as itis "held substantiallyflat by the ribs "44.

While Ihave "shown these ribs 'and' associated elements applied to theback portion or the gar- Tm'ent;they may be applied to any" otherportion 'of'jthegarment; as found desirable.

'InFigure '23, the'ribs 44may be applied to the backportion or panel 4|of'a girdle having a band'48 at its top, 'providedwith transversestiffeningribs49,'as shown inrny Patent 2,136.742. Whenthis is done, theelastic strips or tapes' lz extendover the edge of the band 48, betweenthe "ribs"49,' and terminate'near the transverse center of the band 48,between the ribs. The strips "42"a'reiheld.inplace'bythe lines ofstitching46 ,aridthel.sametransverse line of stitching 41 is employed;to fiXedly. attach the top. endof the fribll tothe band'48. The ribs 44e'xtendtoland beyond'the top of the panel or portion-4|, and retain'thetop portion of thepanel flat but-permitlofflthe longitudinal stretchingofthe portion I'- with relationtoatheribs 44, for the reasons stated-tinconnection with Eigure 19.

.The: stiffening units |4 'J-are I When the tension permit of the lonitudinal stretching "of the foundation element whilelthe riborr'ibsfllwould retain it flat against folding-or: wrinkling. The pocket 5.6 andassociated elements-maybe employed to attach either the :upper or*lowerend of the ribi'i to the foundation element.

In-Figures z l toi28 inclusive, Ithaveaishowna further construction forfixedly securing onetend,

such as the upper-end,-ofthe rib' toan elastic portion of the garment.In connection with'ithis 'form of invention; the numeral 5 49 designatesa 'iabric blank which is longitudinally elastic. I his wblank isfoldable' upon longitudinal lines "50 120 form a side-5|, andside'p0rtions 52. 'One'end of the folded blank is then foldedtransverselyupon 'a' line 53, Figure 25, forming an inner' fiap'54,stitched to the side 5|, and side sectionsl52 by longitudinal lines ofstitching 55, Figure25, forming a pocket 55. 'The short rib'28 of thelongrib 21, Figure 25, is swung upon 'itshinge so that its inner endextends outwardly beyond the" rib any other portion of the girdleorother'garment.

When'thus applied the rib 'zl is *nex't to the foundationelement and theside sections 52-=are nextto the'same. The folded unit is stitched tothe foundation element i2 by longitudinal zigzag lines of stitchingfifl, terminating at the'elevation of'the hinge of the short rib-andfurtherby line's of zigzag stitching 59. The'pOcket EG receiving theinner endof the the short rib: serves to fixedly attach-the end of therib 27 to the garmentgso that it' cannot move longitudinally withrelation to the same, while the casingorpocketSil -formed bythe foldedunit and the foundation element i2 is freely slidable uponthe' rib fl.This will In Figures 29, 36, 31, and 32,1 haveshowna gfurthermodification wherein "a longitudinally elastic strip or tape kit isprovided, which is'ap- :plied to a vertica'iiy and longitudinallyelastic "foundation element or section 6 i.

The tape when 'a'pplied to the section B i overlaps" thesame and extendsupwardly beyond it. 'These overlapping parts are-secured together by azigzag line of stitching S2 terminating at points 2. The

strip 69 is now folded downwardly upon a transverse' line 63,overlapping the flap- 54 and section 8!. These overlapping parts69,--64,"and"' 6|,

-'are now secured together by zigzag lines ofstitching-(i5, terminatingat andzigzag-linesof stitching fit'connecting elements 60 and 6|. "TheslotfiB formedin the upper endof 'thesho'rt'rib ,28and secures thisshort rib to the upper-end of the s'ection'BI or garment. When thestrip-this applied" to the-secti0n"fi| the-fiap fi i is'next' to thesection-6| and the strip-6E) may be'applie'd "to the inner or outer faceofthesectionBl.

"It to'be understood'ithat the" forms of 'my "invention herewith shownand described are to be takenas preferred examples of the samemand Ithatvariouschanges in the shape size andzarrangement of parts mayberesortedto, (without departing from the spirit ofwmy inventions/orthe-scope of the subioined claims.

- Having thus described my invention, what I claim is:

1. A stiffening unit comprising a flexible fabric casing includingopposed'sides, one side being at least in part elastic, means formingpockets near the ends of the casing, said pockets having their innerends spaced longitudinally of the casing, said opposed sides havingtheir adjacent edges disconnected throughout the major portion of theirlength, and a stiffening element within the casing, said stiffeningelement including a long rib and short ribs hinged to the ends of thelong rib, the short ribs extending into the pockets, one side of thecasing to be stitched to a garment part.

2. A stiffening unit comprising a flexible casing including opposedsides, one side being folded transversely upon itself near its ends forforming pocket sides, the inner ends of the pocket sides being spacedlongitudinally of the side which carries them, the other side being atleast in part elastic and secured to the pocket sides, the pocket sidesbeing adapted to form pockets with the first named side, said pocketshaving their inner ends spaced longitudinally of the casing, theadjacent longitudinal edges of the opposed sides being disconnectedthroughout the major portion of their length between the pockets, and astiffening element within the casing including a long rib and short ribshinged thereto near the ends of the long rib, the short ribs extendinginto the pockets, said casing to be secured to a garment part.

3. A stiffening unit comprising a two layer first side foldedtransversely upon itself near its ends for providing pocket sidesforming pockets with the first side, said pockets having their innerends spaced longitudinally of the first side, a second side which is atleast in part elastic secured to the pocket sides, the first and secondsides having their adjacent edges between the pockets disconnectedthroughout the major portion of their length, and a stiffening elementarranged between the first and second sides and including a long rib andshort ribs hinged to the ends of the long rib, the outer ends of theshort ribs ex- ;tending between the pocket sides and first side,

the first side to be stitched to a garment part.

4. A stiffening unit comprising a two layer first side foldedtransverselyupon itself near its ends for providing pocket sides whichform pockets with the first side, said pockets having their inner endsopen and spaced longitudinally of the first side, a second side which isat least in part elastic and including two layer end portions attachedto the pocket sides, the adjacent edges of the first and second sidesbeing disconnected throughout the major portion of their length betweenthe pockets, anda stiffening element arranged between the first andsecond sides and including a long rib and short ribs hinged to the endsof the long rib, the outer ends of the short ribs being covered by thepocket sides and the inner ends of the short ribs being covered by thetwo layer end portions, the first side being stitched to a garment part.

5. A stiffening unit comprising a first side foldable transversely uponitself near its ends for providing pocket sides forming pockets withsuch first side, the inner ends of such pockets being open and spacedlongitudinally of the first side, a second side which is at least inpart elastic secured to the pocket sides, the first and second sideshaving their adjacent longitudinal edges disconnected between thepockets throughout substantially their entire length, a stiffeningelement arranged between the first and second sides and including a longrib and short ribs hinged to the ends of. the long rib, the outer endsof the short ribs extending between the pocket sides and first .side,and means secured to one side between the pockets to prevent the removalof the stiffening element from between said sides.

6. A stiffening unit comprising a first side including a fabric blankfolded longitudinally upon itself to provide a layer and layer sectionsarranged in overlapping relation, the longitudinally folded blank beingfolded transversely near its ends to provide pocket sides forming withthe first side pockets, said pockets having their inner ends open andspaced longitudinally of the first side, a second side including alongitudinally elastic fabric folded transversely upon itself near itsends for providing flaps arranged in overlapping relation to the secondside, means securing the ends of the second side to the pocket sides,the first and second sides having their longitudinal edges between thepockets disconnected throughout the major portion of their length, and astiffening element arranged between the first side and second side andincluding a long rib and short ribs hinged to the ends of the long rib,the outer ends of the short ribs being covered by the pocket sides andthe inner ends of the short ribs being covered by th flaps.

'l. A stiffening unit comprising a first side including an elongatedfabric blank folded longitudinally upon itself to provide a layer andlayer sections arranged in overlapping relation, the longitudinallyfolded blank being transversely folded near its ends for forming pocketsides, each pocket side including a layer and opposed layer sections, thpocket sides forming with the first side end pockets having their innerends open and spaced longitudinally of the first side, a second sideincluding an elongated longitudinally elastic blank folded transverselyupon itself near its ends for providing flaps, the folded ends of thesecond side being inserted between the layers and layer sections of thepocket sides and stitched to the pocket sides, the first and secondsides having their adjacent edges between the pockets disconnectedthroughout the major portion of their length, and a stiffening elementarranged between th first side and second side and including a long riband short ribs hinged to the ends of the long rib, the outer ends of theshort ribs being covered by the pocket sides and the inner ends of theshort ribs being covered by the flaps.

8. A stiffening unit comprising a first side including a fabric blankfolded transversely upon itself near its ends to provide pocket sidesarranged in overlapping relation to the first side and forming with thefirst side end pockets, said end pockets having their inner ends openand spaced longitudinally of the first side, a second side which is atleast in part elastic arranged opposite to the first side and narrowerthan the first side, means securing the ends of the second side to thepocket sides, and a stiffening element arranged between the first sideand second side and including a long rib and short ribs hinged to theends of the long rib, the outer ends of the short ribs being covered bythe pocket sides, the arrangement being such that longitudinal lines ofstitching following the longitudinal edges of the first side and pocketsides may secure the first side and pocket sides to a garment partwithout engaging the second side.

9. A stiffening unit comprising a first side including a fabric blankfolded upon itself near its ends for forming pocket sides, a second sideineluding a longitudinally elastic section, nonelastic attachingelements, each attaching element including a fabric blank foldedlongitudinally upon itself to provide overlap-ping layer and layersections, the ends of the elastic section being inserted between thelayers and layer sections of the attaching elements and secured thereto,the opposite ends of the attaching elements being secured to the pocketsides, and a stiffening element arranged between the first side andsecond side and including a long rib and short ribs hinged to the endsof the long rib.

10. A garment, a stiffening unit for coaction with the garment, thestiffening unit comprising a first side having its ends folded inwardlyupon itself for forming pocket sides which form end pockets with thefirst side, said end pockets having their inner ends open and spacedlongitudinally of the first side, a second side which is at least inpart elastic disposed opposite to the first side and narrower than thefirst side, means securing the ends of the second side to the pocketsides, a stiffening element arranged between the first side and secondside and including a long rib and short ribs hinged to the long rib nearits ends, the outer ends of the short ribs being covered by the pocketsides, and longitudinal lines of stitching passing through the firstside, pocket sides and garment and not through the second side.

11. A casing for a stiffening element, including a long rib and shortribs hinged to the ends of the long rib, said casing including anon-elastic fabric blank folded upon longitudinal edges to provide alayer and layer sections arranged in overlapping relation, the foldedblank forming a first side which is folded transversely near its endsfor providing pocket sides which form end pockets with the first side,said end pockets having their inner ends open and spaced, and a secondside which is at least in part elastic secured to the pocket sides anddisposed opposite to the first side, the first and second sides havingtheir adjacent, longitudinal edges between the end 10 pocketsdisconnected throughout the major portion of their length.

12. A stiffening unit comprising a first side having means secured toone end thereof for forming an end pocket having its inner end open, asecond side which is at least in part elastic secured to the pocketforming means, means connecting the opposite ends of the first side andsecond side, the inner open end of the pocket being spaced from theconnecting means, the first and second sides having their adjacentlongitudinal edges between the pocket and connecting means disconnectedthroughout the major portion of their length, and a stiffening elementarranged between the first side and second side and including a long riband a short rib hinged to one end of the long rib, the short ribprojecting into the pocketing forming means.

13. A stiffening unit to be applied to the body of a garment and formedseparate therefrom, comprising an elongated separate fabric strip foldedat its end transversely to form a flap which is stitched to the stripfor providing a pocket, said pocket having its inner end open and spacedfrom the opposite end a stiffening rib, and a short rib hinged to theend of the stiffening rib and extending into the pocket and means tosecure the separate strip to the body.

HENRY M. HERBENER.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 398,569 Bannier Feb. 26, 18891,523,914 Thorp Jan. 20, 1925 1,581,962 Kispert Apr. 20, 1926 2,062,131Hirsch Nov. 24, 1936 2,132,033 Kapinas Oct. 4, 1938 2,136,742 HerbenerNov. 15, 1938 2,301,047 Hendley Nov. 3, 1942

